R33 Nissan Skyline GT-R Specifications and Production Information

The R33 Nissan Skyline GT-R was produced from January 1995 to November 1998. A total of 16,674 cars were produced according to the GT-R Registry. The 1995 cars are considered Series 1 cars, 1996 Series 2, and 1997 and 1998 Series 3. The R33 GT-R turns 25 years old, and legal to import to the US, starting in January 2020. For more information on legal R33 GT-R importation to the US, check out www. importavehicle.com

Model	GT-R Magazine	GT-R Registry
Normal	9871	5044 Series 1 2291 Series 2 1958 Series 3 9293 Normal
Vspec	6551	4095 Series 1 1203 Series 2 1270 Series 3 6568 Vspec
N1		86
LM		188
Autech		416
UK		103
Total	16250	16674

Total Production by Year 1995-1998

Year	GT-R Magazine	GT-R Registry
1995	8446	9271+20
1996	4093	3651
1997	2708	2700
1998	1175	1038
Total	16422	16674

NISMO 400R. Even though 44 is the claimed number, GT-R Registry thinks there were only 40 produced. We would believe either number could be true.

Car	R32 GT-R (early)	R33 GT-R (normal)	R34 GT-R (normal)	R35 GT-R (early)
Length	4545 mm (178.9 in)	4675 mm (184.1 in)	4600 mm (181.1 in)	4650 mm (183.1 in)
Width	1755 mm (69.1 in)	1780 mm (70.1 in)	1785 mm (70.3)	1900 mm (74.9 in)
Height	1340 mm (52.8 in)	1360 mm (53.5 in)	1360 mm (53.5 in)	1370 mm (54 in)
Weight	1480 kg (3265 lbs)	1530 kg (3373 lbs)	1540 kg (3395 lbs)	1737 kg (3829 lbs)
Wheelbase	2615 mm (103 in)	2720 mm (107.1 in)	2665 mm(104.9 in)	2780 mm (109.4 in)
Front track	1480 mm (58.3 in)	1480 mm (58.3 in)	1480 mm (58.3 in)	1590 mm (62.9 in)
Rear track	1480 mm (58.3 in)	1480 mm (58.3 in)	1490 mm (58.7 in)	1600 mm (63 in)

First Dates of Production

1st model 1-6-1995
Vspec 1-6-1995
2nd model 1-22-1996
LM Limited5-21-1996
3rd model 2-3-1997
Autech 40th Anniversary12-8-1997
Last regular R33 – BCNR33-043740 (QM1 ) 11-9-1998
Last Vspec R33 – BCNR33-043743 (GV1) 11-9-1998
Last Vspec R33 N1- BCNR33-043012 (QM1) 2-20-1998
The last R33 is a R34 color , GV1.There were at least a few made in this color as one of Motorex’s original imported R33’s was GV1.
R33 Chassis number, Serial number, or VIN information.

Paint Codes

AN0 – Super Clear Red

BN6 – Deep Marine Blue
KH3 – Black
KL0 – Spark Silver

KN6 – Dark Grey Pearl
LP2 – Midnight Purple

LP2 – Midnight Purple

QM1 – White

BT2 – Champion Blue one of only 86 cars

BT2 – Champion Blue

KR4 – Sonic Silver

AR1 – Super Clear Red II

Nissan Skyline GT-R prices when new

1-6-95

GT-R 4,7850,000 yen
Vspec 5,290,000 yen
N1 5,990,000 yen

1-22-96

GT-R 4,825,000 yen
Vspec 5,330,000 yen
N1 5,990,000 yen

5-21-96

LM Limited 4,998,000 yen
Vspec LM Limited 5,503,000 yen

2-3-97

GT-R 4,885,000 yen
Vspec 5,390,000 yen
N1 5,998,000 yen

12-8-97

4 door Sedan 4,985,000 yen

Maintenance Requirements for RB26DETT/ R33

Air filter element	Fram CA4309 K&N 33-2031-2	Every 36,000 miles
Oil	Mobil 1 10-30 , 15-50	3,000 miles or 6 months
Oil Filter	OEM 15208-60U00 Fram PH3682 OEM(R34) 15208-9E000	Every 3,000 miles
Spark Plugs	NGK PFR6A-11	Every 60,000 miles
Timing Belt	OEM 13028-20P25	Every 60,000 miles
Suspension ball joint grease		Every 72,000 miles or 4 years
Manual transmission fluid	GL-4 75 –90	Every 60,000 miles or 2 years
Differential Fluid – Front	GL-5 85W-90	Every 60,000 miles or 2 years
– Center	Nissan Automatic Fluid D	Every 60,000 miles or 2 years
– Rear	LSD GL-5 80W-90	Every 60,000 miles or 2 years
Fuel Filter	Purolator F44663 , 1996 Infiniti J30	Every 15,000 miles
Wiper Blades	Bosch 40921-21 (R33)	As required
Radiator Cap	OEM – 21430-4B700
Brake Pads- Front AP592 R592 PFC 592 HB 194		As required
– Rear – AP961		As required
Brake Rotor – Front		As required
Rear		As required
Power Steering belt AC belt Alt/ WP /Fan

Suspension and Alignment settings for Nissan Skyline GT-R. R32, R33, and R34.

R32 GT-R Specifications and Production Information
R33 GT-R Specifications and Production Information
R34 GT-R Specifications and Production Information

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Comments

December 16, 2012

Anonymous

Hello Sean! Just wanna ask regarding the timing belt maintenance… We tried the gear and hand brake method to loosen the very stubborn crank bolt. Now this is something bothering me for a while. In the latter GTR34 they say use the 5th gear to stop the engine from turning, where as on the GTR32 and 33 some will argue only 4th gear is "safe" and 5th is not recommended. I'm confused because I've known some guys with 32 and 33 R used 5th gear when loosening the very tight crank bolt. I actually done it few days ago using 5th, now I'm kinda worried since I may have done it the wrong way.

Hope you can shed some light into it sir, as I know many GTR owners are asking the same.

And a bit of noob question too– why is it its always 4th or 5th to lock the engine on crank bolt removal not the lower gears? And I read some even put oil when tightening it. 🙂 By the way, congratulations on the show and display Zilla! 😉

December 16, 2012

Anonymous

Hello Sean! Just wanna ask regarding the timing belt maintenance… We tried the gear and hand brake method to loosen the very stubborn crank bolt. Now this is something bothering me for a while. In the latter GTR34 they say use the 5th gear to stop the engine from turning, where as on the GTR32 and 33 some will argue only 4th gear is "safe" and 5th is not recommended. I'm confused because I've known some guys with 32 and 33 R used 5th gear when loosening the very tight crank bolt. I actually done it few days ago using 5th, now I'm kinda worried since I may have done it the wrong way.

Hope you can shed some light into it sir, as I know many GTR owners are asking the same.

And a bit of noob question too– why is it its always 4th or 5th to lock the engine on crank bolt removal not the lower gears? And I read some even put oil when tightening it. 🙂 By the way, congratulations on the show and display Zilla! 😉

December 16, 2012

Anonymous

Hello Sean! Just wanna ask regarding the timing belt maintenance… We tried the gear and hand brake method to loosen the very stubborn crank bolt. Now this is something bothering me for a while. In the latter GTR34 they say use the 5th gear to stop the engine from turning, where as on the GTR32 and 33 some will argue only 4th gear is "safe" and 5th is not recommended. I'm confused because I've known some guys with 32 and 33 R used 5th gear when loosening the very tight crank bolt. I actually done it few days ago using 5th, now I'm kinda worried since I may have done it the wrong way.

Hope you can shed some light into it sir, as I know many GTR owners are asking the same.

And a bit of noob question too– why is it its always 4th or 5th to lock the engine on crank bolt removal not the lower gears? And I read some even put oil when tightening it. 🙂 By the way, congratulations on the show and display Zilla! 😉

December 16, 2012

Anonymous

Hello Sean! Just wanna ask regarding the timing belt maintenance… We tried the gear and hand brake method to loosen the very stubborn crank bolt. Now this is something bothering me for a while. In the latter GTR34 they say use the 5th gear to stop the engine from turning, where as on the GTR32 and 33 some will argue only 4th gear is "safe" and 5th is not recommended. I'm confused because I've known some guys with 32 and 33 R used 5th gear when loosening the very tight crank bolt. I actually done it few days ago using 5th, now I'm kinda worried since I may have done it the wrong way.

Hope you can shed some light into it sir, as I know many GTR owners are asking the same.

And a bit of noob question too– why is it its always 4th or 5th to lock the engine on crank bolt removal not the lower gears? And I read some even put oil when tightening it. 🙂 By the way, congratulations on the show and display Zilla! 😉

December 16, 2012

Anonymous

Hello Sean! Just wanna ask regarding the timing belt maintenance… We tried the gear and hand brake method to loosen the very stubborn crank bolt. Now this is something bothering me for a while. In the latter GTR34 they say use the 5th gear to stop the engine from turning, where as on the GTR32 and 33 some will argue only 4th gear is "safe" and 5th is not recommended. I'm confused because I've known some guys with 32 and 33 R used 5th gear when loosening the very tight crank bolt. I actually done it few days ago using 5th, now I'm kinda worried since I may have done it the wrong way.

Hope you can shed some light into it sir, as I know many GTR owners are asking the same.

And a bit of noob question too– why is it its always 4th or 5th to lock the engine on crank bolt removal not the lower gears? And I read some even put oil when tightening it. 🙂 By the way, congratulations on the show and display Zilla! 😉

December 16, 2012

Sean Morris

They mostly say to use a high gear so its harder to actually spin the tires from the crank side. 4th is a 1:1 in an R32/R33, 5th is near 1:1 in the Getrag in an R34. For a small force application like breaking a crank bolt free, just whatever it takes to get it loose will be fine.

If you had it in 1st gear, you have the mechanical advantage of gearing, and can spin/turn the tires from the crank side. The higher the gear, the less mechanical advantage the engine has, and also the higher the load on the engine when running/driving. .

December 16, 2012

Sean Morris

They mostly say to use a high gear so its harder to actually spin the tires from the crank side. 4th is a 1:1 in an R32/R33, 5th is near 1:1 in the Getrag in an R34. For a small force application like breaking a crank bolt free, just whatever it takes to get it loose will be fine.

If you had it in 1st gear, you have the mechanical advantage of gearing, and can spin/turn the tires from the crank side. The higher the gear, the less mechanical advantage the engine has, and also the higher the load on the engine when running/driving. .

December 16, 2012

Sean Morris

They mostly say to use a high gear so its harder to actually spin the tires from the crank side. 4th is a 1:1 in an R32/R33, 5th is near 1:1 in the Getrag in an R34. For a small force application like breaking a crank bolt free, just whatever it takes to get it loose will be fine.

If you had it in 1st gear, you have the mechanical advantage of gearing, and can spin/turn the tires from the crank side. The higher the gear, the less mechanical advantage the engine has, and also the higher the load on the engine when running/driving. .

December 16, 2012

Sean Morris

They mostly say to use a high gear so its harder to actually spin the tires from the crank side. 4th is a 1:1 in an R32/R33, 5th is near 1:1 in the Getrag in an R34. For a small force application like breaking a crank bolt free, just whatever it takes to get it loose will be fine.

If you had it in 1st gear, you have the mechanical advantage of gearing, and can spin/turn the tires from the crank side. The higher the gear, the less mechanical advantage the engine has, and also the higher the load on the engine when running/driving. .

December 17, 2012

Anonymous

Thanks for the informative reply Sean! So basically from an expert's point of view, myself and other 32R or 33 guys don't have to worry about us using the 5th gear for to loosen and tightening the crank bolt? 🙂

Oh you missed the oiling part. Actually, just like some D.I.Y guys out there I too forgot to oil the bolt a bit when tightening it back to the crank. Ummm… is it "just fine" as well. (Fingers crossed) 🙂

Hope this too will serve as a clear up on GT-R owners out there.

December 17, 2012

Anonymous

Thanks for the informative reply Sean! So basically from an expert's point of view, myself and other 32R or 33 guys don't have to worry about us using the 5th gear for to loosen and tightening the crank bolt? 🙂

Oh you missed the oiling part. Actually, just like some D.I.Y guys out there I too forgot to oil the bolt a bit when tightening it back to the crank. Ummm… is it "just fine" as well. (Fingers crossed) 🙂

Hope this too will serve as a clear up on GT-R owners out there.

December 17, 2012

Anonymous

Thanks for the informative reply Sean! So basically from an expert's point of view, myself and other 32R or 33 guys don't have to worry about us using the 5th gear for to loosen and tightening the crank bolt? 🙂

Oh you missed the oiling part. Actually, just like some D.I.Y guys out there I too forgot to oil the bolt a bit when tightening it back to the crank. Ummm… is it "just fine" as well. (Fingers crossed) 🙂

Hope this too will serve as a clear up on GT-R owners out there.

December 17, 2012

Anonymous

Thanks for the informative reply Sean! So basically from an expert's point of view, myself and other 32R or 33 guys don't have to worry about us using the 5th gear for to loosen and tightening the crank bolt? 🙂

Oh you missed the oiling part. Actually, just like some D.I.Y guys out there I too forgot to oil the bolt a bit when tightening it back to the crank. Ummm… is it "just fine" as well. (Fingers crossed) 🙂

Hope this too will serve as a clear up on GT-R owners out there.

December 17, 2012

Anonymous

Thanks for the informative reply Sean! So basically from an expert's point of view, myself and other 32R or 33 guys don't have to worry about us using the 5th gear for to loosen and tightening the crank bolt? 🙂

Oh you missed the oiling part. Actually, just like some D.I.Y guys out there I too forgot to oil the bolt a bit when tightening it back to the crank. Ummm… is it "just fine" as well. (Fingers crossed) 🙂

Hope this too will serve as a clear up on GT-R owners out there.

December 17, 2012

Sean Morris

Oiling the bolt would increase the torque that is placed on the bolt. I normally put a little anti-seize on them, as I like them to come off easier later.

December 17, 2012

Sean Morris

Oiling the bolt would increase the torque that is placed on the bolt. I normally put a little anti-seize on them, as I like them to come off easier later.

December 17, 2012

Sean Morris

Oiling the bolt would increase the torque that is placed on the bolt. I normally put a little anti-seize on them, as I like them to come off easier later.

December 17, 2012

Sean Morris

Oiling the bolt would increase the torque that is placed on the bolt. I normally put a little anti-seize on them, as I like them to come off easier later.

January 7, 2013

Anonymous

Good day R guru sean! Quick question for all the GT-R builders out there, is it a REQUIREMENT to put on loctite on the tensioner studs when replacing them? Coz I know some know how "experienced" mechanics said they don't need to… while other mechanics said it's not safe to put them back w/o it? Bit confused here.

January 7, 2013

Anonymous

Good day R guru sean! Quick question for all the GT-R builders out there, is it a REQUIREMENT to put on loctite on the tensioner studs when replacing them? Coz I know some know how "experienced" mechanics said they don't need to… while other mechanics said it's not safe to put them back w/o it? Bit confused here.

January 7, 2013

Anonymous

Good day R guru sean! Quick question for all the GT-R builders out there, is it a REQUIREMENT to put on loctite on the tensioner studs when replacing them? Coz I know some know how "experienced" mechanics said they don't need to… while other mechanics said it's not safe to put them back w/o it? Bit confused here.

January 7, 2013

Sean Morris

Loctite is a good idea. Its not likely that they will loosen up if tightened correctly with a torque wrench, but not everyone does that every time. If you lose a tensioner, then you have a bad day. So its not a requirement, but its a good idea if you do do it.