Horsepower makes heat. Gasoline (ICE) engines are inefficient. The more power you make, the more heat you have to shed. That waste heat needs to be carried away by some medium, normally water/coolant in most gasoline engines.
The OEM R32/R33/R34 fan clutch are part of the heritage parts program which means they are pretty expensive. The way it works is there is a metallic strip that is on the fan clutch that opens and closes an internal valve to control flow/ lockup of the clutch.
OEM R32/R33/R34 GT-R fan clutch – 21082-RHR30 – About $400-$500
Hayden 2650 for Z, supposedly sounds like a jet! $~70
Dayco 115847 (only available in Australia. I emailed Dayco USA, they said they don’t have it, nor will bring it to the US) ~$200
By about 180F the valve is in this position
Playing with the bi metallic strip and #clutchfan for an #rb26 today. The #rb clutch fan isn’t serviceable like some cars. I have a few used ones, and honestly it’s hard to tell if anything is happening when spinning by hand off the car. I can see the actuation of the valve, but it needs centrifugal force to work. The valve starts to move fairly quickly then is fully open by about 180 F surface temp. #gtrtech
This was room temperature or about 74F
OEM fan clutch on the left. Hayden 2650 on the right
OEM on the left, Hayden 2650 on the right. A couple mm height difference.
These are not the only fans you see on the RB26, but here are most of them. Along with the several styles of OEM, GK Tech also does an aftermarket fan. Some people have broken the GK Tech fan, but I do believe its just because their engine is rocking. The material of the GK Tech fan is a little thinner, and not as forgiving as the OEM fan. The OEM will wear down/grind down. The GK Tech will break. Overall its a sign you have a bad mount or something just isn’t lined up right.
GK Tech RB fan. Super easy to install, simply remove your factory fan (4 bolts) and install the new fan, it is a direct replacement clutch fan to suit RB, VG engines
– Direct replacement of the standard fan – Pulls 40% more air than the factory RB fan
Water Pumps for RB Engines
According to Reimax, the OEM RB26dett water pump flows 160 l/min or 42 gallons per minute. The N1 pump flows 192 l/min or 50 gallons per minute. They say their High Flow Water pump flows 221 l/min or 58 gallons per minute. None of this is given with an rpm, so we will just have to assume that it is maximum flow.
Higher coolant flow will ALWAYS result in higher heat transfer. Coolant cannot absorb heat after it reaches it’s pressure corrected vapor point. Furthermore, coolant absorbs heat at a progressively slower rate as it approaches this point
Z1 overdrive 300ZX pulley on an RB26.
Last year I was messing with some different fan clutches, and pulleys to see if I could get a nice handle on cooling, but I never really came to a final conclusion, or wrapped it up. So in the meanwhile, here are some of my random notes.
OEM water pump pulley on the left, Z1 overdrive on the right
The kit comes complete with everything needed to mount and run the electric water pump. This kit includes the Davies Craig control box (when option is selected) , which is a stand alone unit that does not require connecting to the engines ECU, allowing the control box complete control over the coolant temperature. The control box is powered directly from the battery, allowing the unit to control the water pump and fans while the engine is switched off!! Davies Craig have a preset control program in the unit, that testing has shown to work very well, however, should your engine package require a different coolant temperature strategy, the unit is configurable to target different setups.
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