With my son. Picture by Alvin Miles. Thanks Alvin.
Its March 2021. Still working on the bluecar. Still tinkering with things. Got some things coming up with it. Still sorta prepping it to sell. The sooner I sell it, the sooner I can focus back on Nismo 500, and BB2.
I did an update in February, so here is what has happened since then. I filled it up with E85. $2.49 per gallon with Vons discount. 79% ethanol by my ECB-1
More than that. I replaced the rotor rings on the two piece front rotors. Racing Brakes had some rings in stock, and the car needed them. They had been run hard, and were showing those signs. The old hardware, allens didn’t all come off that easy. So took to the Ryobi 18v grinder to take the heads off. I really like this Ryobi grinder. Works much better than the Craftsman 19.2 that I have used a long time. The Craftsman never seem to last long on a charge, and always seem to stop/ not take much of a load. At $45 to $70 the Ryobi is great if you have that line of cordless tools.
Old Brembo hardware. These did not come out without a fight
I removed the GK Tech uppers. I just wasn’t that happy with them. The bearings in them aren’t durable enough for me. The adjustment of them on car is pretty difficult. The silver sliders are something I have had for a while. I forget who made them. I was going to install them, but I think I am going to work on something else suspension wise for the front.
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
Two bluecars : Calsonic Livery and #bluecar tv2 R32 GT-R
25 to 40 year old JDM cars that were never designed for the kind of heat we see in the Southwest, I’ve been looking into some cooling system modifications. No one wants to rent a car and not be able to use the air conditioning.
This is what I think of, when I look at most gauges. The top tape measure is off 3/16th of an inch
The above picture illustrates why you should always take unknown, uncalibrated, unchecked readings with a grain of salt. Now this doesn’t mean you don’t believe everything, but you have to bounce those numbers against something else. If you use that top tape measure all your measurements, all your cuts are going to be 3/16 of an inch off. Until you check that measurement against another tape measure, your whole life will be 3/16ths off. So remember this when looking at temperatures, air inlet temps, air/fuel ratio monitors, and boost gauges. Compression and Leak down testing
Some people live and die by a single point of AFR, boost, or a temperature. So while the reading on your car may be a certain number, someone elses may be off a little. Your car could read high, theirs low. When I was in the Navy I did Gauge Calibration as part of my collateral duties. For a gauge, generally speaking you are allowed a range or a percentage of the full scale to be off, and still be a “functional” or a gauge you will not replace.
I am a skeptic when it comes to most gauges. Four years calibrating them on ships made me skeptical. That doesn’t mean that I don’t believe anything they say, just not everything they say.
Showing 183F coolant temp at the engine outlet.
The ECUTalk showing coolant temperature that the ECU sees. This is coolant outlet temperature from the engine.
This time the coolant temperature is 13 degrees F warmer, still sort of ambiguously in the middle of its range.
I joke around with people that the factory coolant temperature gauge might as well be hooked to a slip and slide, aka it doesn’t really tell you much, and to prove that, the above readings are from a car in a 100F day here in SoCal. AC on, and sitting parked, driving on the street. The high temp is after shutting the car off, and then starting it back up. Just showing what some temps can easily get to at the sensor. This is significant, because an air bubble or pocket here, can see “water” temps in the 250F range. There is a point in an ECU, that if the water temp is too hot, it will NOT put fuel in the engine during cranking. Most cars will trail fuel off as temperatures increase. Many ECU’s go down to nearly nothing as they max out. I’ve seen it on many track cars, and helped many people fix this issue.
This is before starting the car. Just showing how hot the sensor can be after sitting on a hot day
In the above reading at least the OEM sensor is showing fairly hot in its range. Still not to the “H” mark. 242 F 116 C at the engine. If you make it to the H mark, you have probably fairly cooked it on the water side.
This R32 GT-R is over 25 years old, and has a factory radiator in it. It also has the factory oil/water heat exchanger. Nismo lip on the hood. No Nismo ducts in the bumper. It has an undertray. I added some foam to the top of the radiator to try and keep air from escaping around the top of the radiator and core support. It has the factory radiator shroud. It has the factory fan clutch. The factory air conditioning cooling fan works as designed. Cruising on the freeway and driving normally in a 100F day, saw outlet temperatures ECU readings of about 201F to 208F. Closer to the beach, with cooler ambients, I saw temperatures drop down to 192 F. As the ambient temps increased, the temperatures rose again to the 201F to 208F range. All this on the factory temperature gauge is more or less ambiguously in the middle. 192F and 208F look to be about the same pointish.
The ambients here in SoCal are probably not going to be enough to really push this system, but I have some things I want to try and change. Some of which are some more ducting/cooling panels. Smaller water pump pulley to overdrive the pump(this car is mostly low speed in hot temps). Maybe a new radiator. Cooling system flush and coolant replacement. Higher pressure radiator cap. GK tech fan. New fan clutch.
The 2 wire sensor, is the sensor that the ECU uses as an input. It is a very important sensor. It effects startup, and running of the car. We often see the cooling system not bled right, and an airpocket forms at the sensor. When this happens, the sensor may show 250F-300F. When this happens, the ECU thinks the car is hot, and it may not fire the injectors, based on the tune. So if you have hot start problems, that go away once you crank for a bit, the CTS is a good thing to look at, then the bleeding. This gets back to having a Consult datascanner, so you can see what the ECU is seeing. Makes troubleshooting much easier.
OEM two wire aka ECU input 22630-44B20 (fits about 50 different Nissans)
The 1 wire sensor only drives the gauge in the dash. A cool fact, R32 and R33 are different resistances. You find these things out later, when you start a car up, and have the wrong sensor in. Then about 2 minutes in, the gauge pegs, the car is fairly cool. NZ EFI says that the R34 is also different, need to look that one up.
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
Two bluecars : Calsonic Livery and #bluecar tv2 R32 GT-R
25 to 40 year old JDM cars that were never designed for the kind of heat we see in the Southwest, I’ve been looking into some cooling system modifications. No one wants to rent a car and not be able to use the air conditioning.
This is what I think of, when I look at most gauges. The top tape measure is off 3/16th of an inch
The above picture illustrates why you should always take unknown, uncalibrated, unchecked readings with a grain of salt. Now this doesn’t mean you don’t believe everything, but you have to bounce those numbers against something else. If you use that top tape measure all your measurements, all your cuts are going to be 3/16 of an inch off. Until you check that measurement against another tape measure, your whole life will be 3/16ths off. So remember this when looking at temperatures, air inlet temps, air/fuel ratio monitors, and boost gauges. Compression and Leak down testing
Some people live and die by a single point of AFR, boost, or a temperature. So while the reading on your car may be a certain number, someone elses may be off a little. Your car could read high, theirs low. When I was in the Navy I did Gauge Calibration as part of my collateral duties. For a gauge, generally speaking you are allowed a range or a percentage of the full scale to be off, and still be a “functional” or a gauge you will not replace.
I am a skeptic when it comes to most gauges. Four years calibrating them on ships made me skeptical. That doesn’t mean that I don’t believe anything they say, just not everything they say.
Showing 183F coolant temp at the engine outlet.
The ECUTalk showing coolant temperature that the ECU sees. This is coolant outlet temperature from the engine.
This time the coolant temperature is 13 degrees F warmer, still sort of ambiguously in the middle of its range.
I joke around with people that the factory coolant temperature gauge might as well be hooked to a slip and slide, aka it doesn’t really tell you much, and to prove that, the above readings are from a car in a 100F day here in SoCal. AC on, and sitting parked, driving on the street. The high temp is after shutting the car off, and then starting it back up. Just showing what some temps can easily get to at the sensor. This is significant, because an air bubble or pocket here, can see “water” temps in the 250F range. There is a point in an ECU, that if the water temp is too hot, it will NOT put fuel in the engine during cranking. Most cars will trail fuel off as temperatures increase. Many ECU’s go down to nearly nothing as they max out. I’ve seen it on many track cars, and helped many people fix this issue.
This is before starting the car. Just showing how hot the sensor can be after sitting on a hot day
In the above reading at least the OEM sensor is showing fairly hot in its range. Still not to the “H” mark. 242 F 116 C at the engine. If you make it to the H mark, you have probably fairly cooked it on the water side.
This R32 GT-R is over 25 years old, and has a factory radiator in it. It also has the factory oil/water heat exchanger. Nismo lip on the hood. No Nismo ducts in the bumper. It has an undertray. I added some foam to the top of the radiator to try and keep air from escaping around the top of the radiator and core support. It has the factory radiator shroud. It has the factory fan clutch. The factory air conditioning cooling fan works as designed. Cruising on the freeway and driving normally in a 100F day, saw outlet temperatures ECU readings of about 201F to 208F. Closer to the beach, with cooler ambients, I saw temperatures drop down to 192 F. As the ambient temps increased, the temperatures rose again to the 201F to 208F range. All this on the factory temperature gauge is more or less ambiguously in the middle. 192F and 208F look to be about the same pointish.
The ambients here in SoCal are probably not going to be enough to really push this system, but I have some things I want to try and change. Some of which are some more ducting/cooling panels. Smaller water pump pulley to overdrive the pump(this car is mostly low speed in hot temps). Maybe a new radiator. Cooling system flush and coolant replacement. Higher pressure radiator cap. GK tech fan. New fan clutch.
The 2 wire sensor, is the sensor that the ECU uses as an input. It is a very important sensor. It effects startup, and running of the car. We often see the cooling system not bled right, and an airpocket forms at the sensor. When this happens, the sensor may show 250F-300F. When this happens, the ECU thinks the car is hot, and it may not fire the injectors, based on the tune. So if you have hot start problems, that go away once you crank for a bit, the CTS is a good thing to look at, then the bleeding. This gets back to having a Consult datascanner, so you can see what the ECU is seeing. Makes troubleshooting much easier.
OEM two wire aka ECU input 22630-44B20 (fits about 50 different Nissans)
The 1 wire sensor only drives the gauge in the dash. A cool fact, R32 and R33 are different resistances. You find these things out later, when you start a car up, and have the wrong sensor in. Then about 2 minutes in, the gauge pegs, the car is fairly cool. NZ EFI says that the R34 is also different, need to look that one up.
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
Its a good idea if you are going to go on a track, or do any high speed driving with the car to put an external oil cooler on the car. On a track, it only takes a few laps in cool outside temps to get the oil temps above the 110C range. As important as the cooler itself, is the ducting to and through the cooler core. We bolded and underlined that last line, because it is very important. If you look at any modern car, or look at any kind of race car, ducting in and out of the core of a cooler is managed. Air is lazy. It takes the path of least resistance. Since you bought the cooler, you want the air packed at the front of it to pass though the core, not pass around it. By adding proper ducting, the air will pass though the core, raising efficiency tremendously.
We had this question recently, what is out there as a kit for a BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R. So lets see. With an oil cooler you want the largest lines possible. You want the least amount of 90 degree fittings possible. Steel braided lines, and a remote oil filter mounts are big pluses. If you don’t want to make up your own kit, here are a few off the shelf that you can buy
1) Make your own oil cooler kit. You need a core, fittings, and a filter adaptor. It is not a difficult thing, but once you piece one together, you realize how expensive it can be. Don’t buy a shitty core. Buy a Setrab oil cooler core. Use -12 AN fittings and line. Use the least number of 90 degree fittings possible. Try and duct air through the core, that is in and out.
2) Used oil coolers. Buying a used oil cooler, is kind of like buying used underwear. Some people are into that, but you want to make sure you clean them really well before you use them. An ultrasonic cleaning, of the oil cooler, not the underwear, is in order. A perfect example of a unique setup is the ARC below.
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
Its a good idea if you are going to go on a track, or do any high speed driving with the car to put an external oil cooler on the car. On a track, it only takes a few laps in cool outside temps to get the oil temps above the 110C range. As important as the cooler itself, is the ducting to and through the cooler core. We bolded and underlined that last line, because it is very important. If you look at any modern car, or look at any kind of race car, ducting in and out of the core of a cooler is managed. Air is lazy. It takes the path of least resistance. Since you bought the cooler, you want the air packed at the front of it to pass though the core, not pass around it. By adding proper ducting, the air will pass though the core, raising efficiency tremendously.
We had this question recently, what is out there as a kit for a BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R. So lets see. With an oil cooler you want the largest lines possible. You want the least amount of 90 degree fittings possible. Steel braided lines, and a remote oil filter mounts are big pluses. If you don’t want to make up your own kit, here are a few off the shelf that you can buy
1) Make your own oil cooler kit. You need a core, fittings, and a filter adaptor. It is not a difficult thing, but once you piece one together, you realize how expensive it can be. Don’t buy a shitty core. Buy a Setrab oil cooler core. Use -12 AN fittings and line. Use the least number of 90 degree fittings possible. Try and duct air through the core, that is in and out.
2) Used oil coolers. Buying a used oil cooler, is kind of like buying used underwear. Some people are into that, but you want to make sure you clean them really well before you use them. An ultrasonic cleaning, of the oil cooler, not the underwear, is in order. A perfect example of a unique setup is the ARC below.
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
The RB26 is not the most simple engine on earth. There are lots of places for an oil leak. Here are a few of the most common engine oil leaks. Although along with engine oil you can have front diff leak, power steering, transmission, transfercase, ATTESA system, and rear end leaks.
The first easy one. When you change the oil on an RB26, oil will often leak and pool on the top of the front diff. Do your best to clean it off, otherwise you might be hunting something that isn’t there, when you see a little puddle under your car.
The “1/2 moon” at the back of the head. These get crispy, its a good idea to replace them. 11051-58S00
Exhaust cam cover removed
Cam Cover/ Valve Cover
Often the bolts and cam cover grommets get loose. They are rubber with a metal washer. The trick is to tighten them tight enough, without over tightening them. Part number for the grommets 13268-58S01
Hot side, oil and water lines to the turbo. Heater core hose
The rear main seals really don’t go bad that often. When/if you are doing the clutch, replace the rear main seal. It is just a good practice. Also replace the pilot bearing/bushing. You don’t have to, but as long as you are there. 12279-5L310
The turbos have supply and drains. Each supply has several areas it can leak. Each drain has several areas it can leak. Since this is the hot side of the engine, a leak here can flash into a fire. Be very cautious of any leaks on this side of the engine.
The rear turbo is hooked to the PCV or positive crankcase ventilation system. It is sucking in air from the exhaust side cam cover, and since they are hooked together, both cam covers. This oil will often pool in the inlet side to the rear turbo. The RB26 whips up a lot of oil, or aerates
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
The RB26 is not the most simple engine on earth. There are lots of places for an oil leak. Here are a few of the most common engine oil leaks. Although along with engine oil you can have front diff leak, power steering, transmission, transfercase, ATTESA system, and rear end leaks.
The first easy one. When you change the oil on an RB26, oil will often leak and pool on the top of the front diff. Do your best to clean it off, otherwise you might be hunting something that isn’t there, when you see a little puddle under your car.
The “1/2 moon” at the back of the head. These get crispy, its a good idea to replace them. 11051-58S00
Exhaust cam cover removed
Cam Cover/ Valve Cover
Often the bolts and cam cover grommets get loose. They are rubber with a metal washer. The trick is to tighten them tight enough, without over tightening them. Part number for the grommets 13268-58S01
Hot side, oil and water lines to the turbo. Heater core hose
The rear main seals really don’t go bad that often. When/if you are doing the clutch, replace the rear main seal. It is just a good practice. Also replace the pilot bearing/bushing. You don’t have to, but as long as you are there. 12279-5L310
The turbos have supply and drains. Each supply has several areas it can leak. Each drain has several areas it can leak. Since this is the hot side of the engine, a leak here can flash into a fire. Be very cautious of any leaks on this side of the engine.
The rear turbo is hooked to the PCV or positive crankcase ventilation system. It is sucking in air from the exhaust side cam cover, and since they are hooked together, both cam covers. This oil will often pool in the inlet side to the rear turbo. The RB26 whips up a lot of oil, or aerates
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
The RB26 is not the most simple engine on earth. There are lots of places for an oil leak. Here are a few of the most common engine oil leaks. Although along with engine oil you can have front diff leak, power steering, transmission, transfercase, ATTESA system, and rear end leaks.
The first easy one. When you change the oil on an RB26, oil will often leak and pool on the top of the front diff. Do your best to clean it off, otherwise you might be hunting something that isn’t there, when you see a little puddle under your car.
The “1/2 moon” at the back of the head. These get crispy, its a good idea to replace them. 11051-58S00
Exhaust cam cover removed
Cam Cover/ Valve Cover
Often the bolts and cam cover grommets get loose. They are rubber with a metal washer. The trick is to tighten them tight enough, without over tightening them. Part number for the grommets 13268-58S01
Hot side, oil and water lines to the turbo. Heater core hose
The rear main seals really don’t go bad that often. When/if you are doing the clutch, replace the rear main seal. It is just a good practice. Also replace the pilot bearing/bushing. You don’t have to, but as long as you are there. 12279-5L310
The turbos have supply and drains. Each supply has several areas it can leak. Each drain has several areas it can leak. Since this is the hot side of the engine, a leak here can flash into a fire. Be very cautious of any leaks on this side of the engine.
The rear turbo is hooked to the PCV or positive crankcase ventilation system. It is sucking in air from the exhaust side cam cover, and since they are hooked together, both cam covers. This oil will often pool in the inlet side to the rear turbo. The RB26 whips up a lot of oil, or aerates
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
Is this cooler 1/2 to 3/4 as good as a normal A/C condenser? The nice part about it, is that its well protected. However your A/C may not be as cold as you like. Compromises. Versus not having A/C, we will try this out and see how it goes. The oil cooler is a bit weird with two 90 degree fittings on it. Cooler looks like it is a Setrab core, around a 925. This part is going into NISMO #500. It was cleaned up and painted with a light coat of radiator black.
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
Is this cooler 1/2 to 3/4 as good as a normal A/C condenser? The nice part about it, is that its well protected. However your A/C may not be as cold as you like. Compromises. Versus not having A/C, we will try this out and see how it goes. The oil cooler is a bit weird with two 90 degree fittings on it. Cooler looks like it is a Setrab core, around a 925. This part is going into NISMO #500. It was cleaned up and painted with a light coat of radiator black.
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
![[Vehicle Fitment-1]: This automotive replacement spark plugs Compatible with INFINITI 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 FX50 V8 5.0L, 2011 2012 2013 M56 V8 5.6L, 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 Q70 V8 5.6L, 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 Q70L V8 5.6L, 2011 2012 2013 ...](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51a4vf0j0NL._SL160_.jpg)
