We have/use a lot of MAF or mass air flow meters for Nissan Skyline GT-R.
Old cars. You will probably see me write that 100, 1000 times on here and to people. Obviously nothing is forever. In the terms of vehicle electronic components that live under hood, and are subjected to years of vibration, and heat, they can and will break. The Nissan RB mass airflow sensor is a great device, and is given a bad rep by people that don’t understand how it works, and why it is a superior system to measure an engines requirements in many cases(not all).
Bad connections, bad solder joints, blow off valves to atmosphere, and leaks can all cause issues. What seems like a 2500 rpm limiter, is often a bad/failing sensor. Stalling when you let off the throttle is normally a BOV to atmosphere. The R35, or later Nissan blade style sensor is superior to this era of Nissan MAF, but its not a simple plug and play. It requires a housing, wiring, ECU tune to support the later MAF.
Since we have a lot of MAF, I had to see if I could sort a good RB26 MAF from a bad one
The mass airflow sensor (MAF sensor) is a critical component in the fuel injection system of the Nissan Skyline GT-R. It measures the mass of air flowing into the engine, which is then used by the engine control unit (ECU) to calculate the correct air-fuel ratio for combustion.
The dual MAF sensors are located before each turbo, and consist of a heated wire or hot film element that is exposed to the airstream. As the air flows past the element, it cools the element, and the ECU measures the amount of current required to keep the element at a constant temperature. This current measurement is then converted into a mass airflow reading. As you can see in the video below, an RB26 will actually run on no MAF. It even will take throttle. I don’t recommend driving one like this, but if you suspect issues, unplugging both MAF may allow you to limp home.
They often fail because internally the connector into the OEM board solder joint cracks. This creates an odd or failed reading. Normally just reflowing the solder joint can fix it.
Testing a MAF
I made a little rig with a Milwaukee 12v battery, some Anderson plugs, and a Fluke multimeter. It seems that when the output voltage settles above about 0.16 v with no movement, then the MAF runs good on a car. When it drops lower than that, the MAF does not work in most cars we have tested.
This MAF seems to test OK. I do hate when someone uses the orange OEM Nissan silicone to seal a MAF.
A bad MAF sensor can cause a variety of problems with a Skyline GT-R, including:
Engine hesitation or stalling
Rough idle
Poor fuel economy
Increased emissions
Check engine light
Here are some of the symptoms of a bad MAF sensor in a Nissan Skyline GT-R:
Engine hesitation or stalling
Rough idle
Poor fuel economy
Increased emissions
Check engine light
Engine surging
Engine knocking
Loss of power
If you experience any of these symptoms, it is important to have your MAF sensor checked by a qualified technician as soon as possible. A bad MAF sensor can cause a number of other problems with your Skyline GT-R, so it is important to have it replaced as soon as possible.
The MAF sensor is a relatively inexpensive part, and it is relatively easy to replace.
Here are some tips for preventing MAF sensor problems in your Nissan Skyline GT-R:
Keep the air intake system clean and free of debris.
Avoid driving through deep water or puddles.
Have the MAF sensor cleaned or replaced regularly, as recommended by the manufacturer.
By following these tips, you can help to keep your MAF sensor in good condition and prevent problems.
This is a decent rule of thumb for MAF flow to horsepower. Like any rule of thumb its not exact, and misses a few factors, but its close enough to eyeball.
N/A and Turbo Engine HP= MAF (g/s) * 1.25
Supercharged Engine HP=MAF (g/s) *1.1
N/A and Turbo Dynojet WHP manual= MAF (g/s) * 1.1
Supercharged Dynojet WHP manual =MAF (g/s) *0.95
As you can see in this HKS chart, a stock MAF at around 5 volts, or maxed out is about 275 g/s, that equates to just about 340 hp at the engine each. I find the OEM sensors are about done by 4.7 to 4.8 volts or 200 g/s which is about 250 at the engine, or 220 at the wheels each.
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
We have/use a lot of MAF or mass air flow meters for Nissan Skyline GT-R.
Old cars. You will probably see me write that 100, 1000 times on here and to people. Obviously nothing is forever. In the terms of vehicle electronic components that live under hood, and are subjected to years of vibration, and heat, they can and will break. The Nissan RB mass airflow sensor is a great device, and is given a bad rep by people that don’t understand how it works, and why it is a superior system to measure an engines requirements in many cases(not all).
Bad connections, bad solder joints, blow off valves to atmosphere, and leaks can all cause issues. What seems like a 2500 rpm limiter, is often a bad/failing sensor. Stalling when you let off the throttle is normally a BOV to atmosphere. The R35, or later Nissan blade style sensor is superior to this era of Nissan MAF, but its not a simple plug and play. It requires a housing, wiring, ECU tune to support the later MAF.
Since we have a lot of MAF, I had to see if I could sort a good RB26 MAF from a bad one
The mass airflow sensor (MAF sensor) is a critical component in the fuel injection system of the Nissan Skyline GT-R. It measures the mass of air flowing into the engine, which is then used by the engine control unit (ECU) to calculate the correct air-fuel ratio for combustion.
The dual MAF sensors are located before each turbo, and consist of a heated wire or hot film element that is exposed to the airstream. As the air flows past the element, it cools the element, and the ECU measures the amount of current required to keep the element at a constant temperature. This current measurement is then converted into a mass airflow reading. As you can see in the video below, an RB26 will actually run on no MAF. It even will take throttle. I don’t recommend driving one like this, but if you suspect issues, unplugging both MAF may allow you to limp home.
They often fail because internally the connector into the OEM board solder joint cracks. This creates an odd or failed reading. Normally just reflowing the solder joint can fix it.
Testing a MAF
I made a little rig with a Milwaukee 12v battery, some Anderson plugs, and a Fluke multimeter. It seems that when the output voltage settles above about 0.16 v with no movement, then the MAF runs good on a car. When it drops lower than that, the MAF does not work in most cars we have tested.
This MAF seems to test OK. I do hate when someone uses the orange OEM Nissan silicone to seal a MAF.
A bad MAF sensor can cause a variety of problems with a Skyline GT-R, including:
Engine hesitation or stalling
Rough idle
Poor fuel economy
Increased emissions
Check engine light
Here are some of the symptoms of a bad MAF sensor in a Nissan Skyline GT-R:
Engine hesitation or stalling
Rough idle
Poor fuel economy
Increased emissions
Check engine light
Engine surging
Engine knocking
Loss of power
If you experience any of these symptoms, it is important to have your MAF sensor checked by a qualified technician as soon as possible. A bad MAF sensor can cause a number of other problems with your Skyline GT-R, so it is important to have it replaced as soon as possible.
The MAF sensor is a relatively inexpensive part, and it is relatively easy to replace.
Here are some tips for preventing MAF sensor problems in your Nissan Skyline GT-R:
Keep the air intake system clean and free of debris.
Avoid driving through deep water or puddles.
Have the MAF sensor cleaned or replaced regularly, as recommended by the manufacturer.
By following these tips, you can help to keep your MAF sensor in good condition and prevent problems.
This is a decent rule of thumb for MAF flow to horsepower. Like any rule of thumb its not exact, and misses a few factors, but its close enough to eyeball.
N/A and Turbo Engine HP= MAF (g/s) * 1.25
Supercharged Engine HP=MAF (g/s) *1.1
N/A and Turbo Dynojet WHP manual= MAF (g/s) * 1.1
Supercharged Dynojet WHP manual =MAF (g/s) *0.95
As you can see in this HKS chart, a stock MAF at around 5 volts, or maxed out is about 275 g/s, that equates to just about 340 hp at the engine each. I find the OEM sensors are about done by 4.7 to 4.8 volts or 200 g/s which is about 250 at the engine, or 220 at the wheels each.
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
I always try and mark parts. Otherwise I never remember later
This was a bit of an odd one. We had a car that had a non functioning AC system. The system was charged, good pressures. All the codes came back good, but the clutch wouldn’t engage/ system wouldn’t turn on.
Air conditioning relay ground is on pin number 9
The ECU mostly provides a ground to turn most things “on”. The power or hot side comes through a fuse. When the ECU makes the ground the circuit is completed. This includes things like the fuel pump relay, and for the air conditioning though the dual pressure switch, the air conditioning relay.
On this car, I had used an ECU that I had in stock for a friends car. It had some other weird ECU issues, and this ECU seemed to clear them up. However when later troubleshooting the AC issue, we found it was not providing the ground for the AC relay. We swapped ECU to another ECU, and the AC functioned correctly.
Burned circuit in the ECU.
It even showed up on the case, but it does not appear like the case contacted anything in the circuit
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
I always try and mark parts. Otherwise I never remember later
This was a bit of an odd one. We had a car that had a non functioning AC system. The system was charged, good pressures. All the codes came back good, but the clutch wouldn’t engage/ system wouldn’t turn on.
Air conditioning relay ground is on pin number 9
The ECU mostly provides a ground to turn most things “on”. The power or hot side comes through a fuse. When the ECU makes the ground the circuit is completed. This includes things like the fuel pump relay, and for the air conditioning though the dual pressure switch, the air conditioning relay.
On this car, I had used an ECU that I had in stock for a friends car. It had some other weird ECU issues, and this ECU seemed to clear them up. However when later troubleshooting the AC issue, we found it was not providing the ground for the AC relay. We swapped ECU to another ECU, and the AC functioned correctly.
Burned circuit in the ECU.
It even showed up on the case, but it does not appear like the case contacted anything in the circuit
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
There are clean ways to mount your aftermarket ECU, and then there is stuffing it under the carpet, and hoping no one steps on it. So far there are a few small companies in the US, that make nice ECU mounting brackets. It seems the rest of the world likes to just leave the ECU hanging, or laying, as it may be. This kit from OST Dyno mounts your Haltech ECU under the dash.
This mounting kit includes everything needed to securely mount your Haltech Elite underneath the glovebox of your R32 Skyline (should work for all models but only tested in a GTR). Elite ECU not included
Features: Stainless steel construction Easy installation (about 10 minutes) Keeps ECU out of passenger footwell where it may be damaged Provisions to keep jumper harness neat and tidy Clears JDM road flare mount Made in the USA
Note: The Series 1 (pre-August 1991) cars have a different blower motor under the dash. Of course this could have been changed to a later motor at some point in your car’s life. Please confirm what motor you have. An easy way is to look at the length of the vent hose. The Series 1 is about 6 inches and runs under the heater box while the Series 2 is only a couple inches and does not run under the heater box. If you are unsure what motor you have, the Series 1 bracket will fit both Series 1 and 2 cars. The difference is that the Series 2 bracket tucks the ECU up higher due to the smaller blower motor.
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
There are clean ways to mount your aftermarket ECU, and then there is stuffing it under the carpet, and hoping no one steps on it. So far there are a few small companies in the US, that make nice ECU mounting brackets. It seems the rest of the world likes to just leave the ECU hanging, or laying, as it may be. This kit from OST Dyno mounts your Haltech ECU under the dash.
This mounting kit includes everything needed to securely mount your Haltech Elite underneath the glovebox of your R32 Skyline (should work for all models but only tested in a GTR). Elite ECU not included
Features: Stainless steel construction Easy installation (about 10 minutes) Keeps ECU out of passenger footwell where it may be damaged Provisions to keep jumper harness neat and tidy Clears JDM road flare mount Made in the USA
Note: The Series 1 (pre-August 1991) cars have a different blower motor under the dash. Of course this could have been changed to a later motor at some point in your car’s life. Please confirm what motor you have. An easy way is to look at the length of the vent hose. The Series 1 is about 6 inches and runs under the heater box while the Series 2 is only a couple inches and does not run under the heater box. If you are unsure what motor you have, the Series 1 bracket will fit both Series 1 and 2 cars. The difference is that the Series 2 bracket tucks the ECU up higher due to the smaller blower motor.
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
ECU = Engine Control Unit
ECM = Engine Control Module
Your car just came over from Japan, and while checking it out you notice that your ECU has some kind of sticker or badge on it. What is it? What does it do? Is it OK to run on pump gas in the US? Do I need to tune my car? Can this ECU be retuned? The factory ECU is not OBD II. It uses Nissan’s proprietary diagnostic connector, known as Consult.
The R34 GT-R ECU has swapped pins for the CAS, and it has Nissan Anti Theft(NATS), so power goes to a different spot. It is possible to use an R32 GT-R ECU in an R34 GT-R with modifications. Check the above Nistune document for more information.
Some of the popular ECU or ROM tunes that we have seen
They all are made for Japanese fuel, some are better than others at handling our fuel here in the US. Some are dangerous for your engine and turbo. Remember Japanese 98 RON or 100 RON is not 98 or 100 AKI like how we rate it in the US. Much more information about octane, please read and understand the differences. You don’t need 100 AKI to run your Japanese ECU. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating
The factory ECU has two maps in it, and knock control. So if you are knocking past a point, it will switch to the knock map. The car will make less power, and it may to help save the engine. If you knock excessively, you will 100% damage the engine. If you hear a noise that sounds like marbles in a can, get out of the throttle. Nothing good comes from staying in it. With a 25 or 30 year old car there could be 100 different things wrong with the car. Go through all the basics first.
Way back when, you probably knew someone that had “chipped” a car. Some snake oil sellers out there, made huge claims into extra performance in chipping a car. Most of all those claims on a normally aspirated car are bullshit. However on a turbo car, there are pretty big gains in doing something like just raising the boost. For every increase of about 1 psi, you will usually see about 15 horsepower.
ECU Sensors and part numbers
Boost – the factory ECU does NOT have a boost sensor in an R32/R33/R34. The OEM sensor in the engine compartment, only drives a gauge.
CAS– Crank angle sensors – Nissan CAS or crank angle sensor is a crankshaft position sensor driven from the exhaust cam. The CAS sometimes accidentally called a cam angle sensor, has an optical wheel inside that is driven at 1/2 crank speed. It has two sets of slots inside. One set is 360 one for each degree. The other set of slots is 6 or one for every 120 degrees of crank rotation. You will often see the signals labeled as the 1 and 120 signals. The CAS allows you to adjust base ignition timing on an RB engine. There are several different part’s and part numbers for them. There are Mitsubishi and Hitachi sensors. There even a couple of shapes of the R32/R33 sensor. The late R32, and early R33 sensors had a slightly different shape than the early R32, and R33 later sensors that were all the same. R32/R33 – 23731-02U11
The 2 wire sensor, is the sensor that the ECU uses as an input. It is a very important sensor. It effects startup, and running of the car. We often see the cooling system not bled right, and an airpocket forms at the sensor. When this happens, the sensor may show 250F-300F. When this happens, the ECU thinks the car is hot, and it may not fire the injectors, based on the tune. So if you have hot start problems, that go away once you crank for a bit, the CTS is a good thing to look at, then the bleeding. This gets back to having a Consult datascanner, so you can see what the ECU is seeing. Makes troubleshooting much easier.
The 1 wire sensor only drives the gauge in the dash. A cool fact, R32 and R33 are different resistances. You find these things out later, when you start a car up, and have the wrong sensor in. Then about 2 minutes in, the gauge pegs, the car is fairly cool. NZ EFI says that the R34 is also different, need to look that one up.
Oxygen Sensors
The R32 sensors are smaller than the R33/R34 sensors. The sensors themselves are the same, just the connector is different between the front and rear sensor. They are easy to swap around if you need to.
Over 30 years of tuning vehicles, we have a lot of experience with stock and aftermarket ECU’s. Over 20 years of the Nissan Skyline GT-R, we have tried a lot of different ECU’s. We have fixed a lot of issues, and seen a lot of things that make us shake our head. The best ECU in the world sucks with a shitty tuner, and an improper tune. The most basic ECU is great with a good tune, and people that understand its limitations. If you buy the fanciest ECU, and don’t set it up correctly, then don’t buy the fanciest ECU. Our normal recommendation these days, is use whatever your tuner recommends. You don’t want to pay for them to learn how to use the ECU. There may also be some tricks in setting it up, like Haltech, TPS, and ATTESA don’t always get along.
Most people insist on a MAP sensor, when a MAF actually does a better job of measuring actual airflow into the engine than a MAP. However blow off valves, old style MAF, and a few other limitations mean that most people go to MAP.
MAP= Manifold absolute pressure
MAF= Mass air flow
Strengths of Mass Air Flow
Extremely accurate fueling and spark delivery across a diverse range of engine conditions (at least while in steady-states): the holy grail for engine management. A properly set-up MAF system can adapt to changes in weather and altitude with ease.
Minor changes to engine equipment (i.e. headers, minor camshaft changes, intakes that do not significantly alter the placement of the MAF) do not require recalibration of the ECM.
Weaknesses of Mass Air Flow
MAF systems are extremely intolerant of vacuum leaks. Any leaks between MAF sensor and engine generally cause all manner of odd problems, running lean in most cases due to un-metered air making it into the engine.
MAF sensors can be extremely sensitive to how they are “clocked” – merely rotating the sensor at a given spot in the intake tract can be sufficient to significantly change its output.
MAF sensors require laminar flow to read 100% accurately. True laminar fluids do not exist so this introduces some degree of inaccuracy to MAF sensor readings. Placing MAF sensors near bends, size transitions or obstructions where flow is less laminar greatly magnifies this issue.
A MAF sensor can be a flow restriction in cases where the MAF housing is the smallest portion of the intake system.
Hot-wire MAF elements are very fragile. Debris can destroy delicate wires easily. Dirt and oil deposits can build up on the sensor element, adversely affecting readings.
MAF systems have a relatively poor response to transient conditions, such as sudden throttle changes. This is explained by the time it takes air to move from the MAF sensor where it is measured to the cylinder where it can be involved in combustion.
MAF sensors are not “one-way” sensors – reversion from a camshaft with large amounts of overlap can cause air to be metered on its way in to the engine and then again on its way out resulting in an artificially high MAF reading. This can almost always be fixed by placing the MAF sensor sufficiently far from the throttle body, however doing so comes at the expense of making transient response even worse.
It may seem like there are a lot of weaknesses of MAF systems, but it is truly hard to emphasize just how amazing and important the strengths are. It is no secret that the majority of OEMs today are implementing MAF systems as the primary control strategy. There is a good reason for this, namely that engines can be controlled much more precisely (with the goal of meeting stricter and stricter emissions standards) with a MAF system than any other type of control strategy.
We did a lot of the initial development work of the RB26 V1 with AEM. They were local in LA, and we loaned them a stock car to dyno, and to install an ECU and tune. A few things they found were related to the CAS. The stock CAS has a 360 wheel in it, and the ECU can have a hard time reading it. They make a modified wheel to minimize errors. The V1 also runs the coils in waste spark, which works fine, but I still don’t like the idea of it. If you run it on the R34, you have to check out the load for the TPS, for the ATTESA system to work correctly.
The Power FC has been around many years, and is a well supported and documented ECU. With a hand commander, you can monitor and tune your own car. Its a little unwieldy to make changes with a commander, but it is possible. Companies like FC-Datalogit make aftermarket boxes that allow laptop tuning and datalogging of a Power FC. The one thing I don’t like about the Power FC, is that it has no actual knock control. It will flash the check engine light at you, but it will not knock back timing or boost. Some good things are integrated boost control, options to run many MAF and even MAP with the DJetro. Some cool features in some of the special boxes they make, like launch control in some of the Power FC pro.
D Jetro map sensors hooked to the balance tube, not to each individual runner as the instructions say
Apex Power FC D Jetro
Do not hook the MAP sensors up how they tell you. Do not drill and tap the plenum. You have a very erratic map signal, and the cars never seem to run right. Tap the sensors off the balance tube. These seems to make them pretty happy.
Apex Power FC L Jetro
This is the normal Power FC version. It will run a number of MAF right out of the box. Works
Apex Power FC Pro
There are a number of versions of this, and there are even some other special ones. However they normally have launch control built in.
Nistune is a real-time tuning suite designed especially for Nissans which provides the ability to:
• Retune factory Nissan Engine Control Units (ECU)
• Monitor gauges and map tracing on your ECU
• Data log from your ECU using consult, wideband and auxiliary inputs
• Perform playback using graphs, gauges and map tracing
Our System Provides:
• Connectivity for up to two emulators simultaneously
• Loads and Saves files in regular and odd/even formats for chip burning (EPROM/FLASH)
Features:
• Real time tuning, map tracing, logging and playback
• Full Log Recording for all Nistune ECUs
• Wideband can also be recorded inline with consult data and played back.
• Map and table copy feature
• Completely editable multi window grid map/table views
• Resize injectors and change AFM capabilities
• AFR and auxillary input trace against RPM and load
• Consult display capabilities with real time diagnostic information in separate windows
• Dual channel Wide Band support
• Edit five ROM images simultaneously, with comparison capabilities
• Intelligent display tables decoded for easy modification
• Hardware and software installation guides, videos and manuals provided
Megasquirt MS3Pro
Vpec
R32 GT-R ECU pinout
Defeating the speed limiter on an R32/R33/R34 ECU.
Often specified as original equipment, NGK spark plugs are the best combination of performance and longevity. Offering the Quality, Reliability and Durability You'd Expect from an OEM Manufacturer NGK is the world's largest supplier of OEM spark plug… read more
The details interface only displays some car models. To view all car models, please click on the top of the interface"make sure this fits" Fitment1: Nissan 370Z Maxima Murano Pathfinder Quest GT-R Altima 350Z Frontier|SL 2003-2024|SV 2009-2024|S 2004… read more
【OE Standard】Our spark plugs meet or exceed OE specifications for form, fit and function and are perfect for automotive replacement spark plugs.Quick and easy installation, excellent and reliable performance. Premium spark plug kits are a quick and e… read more
ECU = Engine Control Unit
ECM = Engine Control Module
Your car just came over from Japan, and while checking it out you notice that your ECU has some kind of sticker or badge on it. What is it? What does it do? Is it OK to run on pump gas in the US? Do I need to tune my car? Can this ECU be retuned? The factory ECU is not OBD II. It uses Nissan’s proprietary diagnostic connector, known as Consult.
The R34 GT-R ECU has swapped pins for the CAS, and it has Nissan Anti Theft(NATS), so power goes to a different spot. It is possible to use an R32 GT-R ECU in an R34 GT-R with modifications. Check the above Nistune document for more information.
Some of the popular ECU or ROM tunes that we have seen
They all are made for Japanese fuel, some are better than others at handling our fuel here in the US. Some are dangerous for your engine and turbo. Remember Japanese 98 RON or 100 RON is not 98 or 100 AKI like how we rate it in the US. Much more information about octane, please read and understand the differences. You don’t need 100 AKI to run your Japanese ECU. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating
The factory ECU has two maps in it, and knock control. So if you are knocking past a point, it will switch to the knock map. The car will make less power, and it may to help save the engine. If you knock excessively, you will 100% damage the engine. If you hear a noise that sounds like marbles in a can, get out of the throttle. Nothing good comes from staying in it. With a 25 or 30 year old car there could be 100 different things wrong with the car. Go through all the basics first.
Way back when, you probably knew someone that had “chipped” a car. Some snake oil sellers out there, made huge claims into extra performance in chipping a car. Most of all those claims on a normally aspirated car are bullshit. However on a turbo car, there are pretty big gains in doing something like just raising the boost. For every increase of about 1 psi, you will usually see about 15 horsepower.
ECU Sensors and part numbers
Boost – the factory ECU does NOT have a boost sensor in an R32/R33/R34. The OEM sensor in the engine compartment, only drives a gauge.
CAS– Crank angle sensors – Nissan CAS or crank angle sensor is a crankshaft position sensor driven from the exhaust cam. The CAS sometimes accidentally called a cam angle sensor, has an optical wheel inside that is driven at 1/2 crank speed. It has two sets of slots inside. One set is 360 one for each degree. The other set of slots is 6 or one for every 120 degrees of crank rotation. You will often see the signals labeled as the 1 and 120 signals. The CAS allows you to adjust base ignition timing on an RB engine. There are several different part’s and part numbers for them. There are Mitsubishi and Hitachi sensors. There even a couple of shapes of the R32/R33 sensor. The late R32, and early R33 sensors had a slightly different shape than the early R32, and R33 later sensors that were all the same. R32/R33 – 23731-02U11
The 2 wire sensor, is the sensor that the ECU uses as an input. It is a very important sensor. It effects startup, and running of the car. We often see the cooling system not bled right, and an airpocket forms at the sensor. When this happens, the sensor may show 250F-300F. When this happens, the ECU thinks the car is hot, and it may not fire the injectors, based on the tune. So if you have hot start problems, that go away once you crank for a bit, the CTS is a good thing to look at, then the bleeding. This gets back to having a Consult datascanner, so you can see what the ECU is seeing. Makes troubleshooting much easier.
The 1 wire sensor only drives the gauge in the dash. A cool fact, R32 and R33 are different resistances. You find these things out later, when you start a car up, and have the wrong sensor in. Then about 2 minutes in, the gauge pegs, the car is fairly cool. NZ EFI says that the R34 is also different, need to look that one up.
Oxygen Sensors
The R32 sensors are smaller than the R33/R34 sensors. The sensors themselves are the same, just the connector is different between the front and rear sensor. They are easy to swap around if you need to.
Over 30 years of tuning vehicles, we have a lot of experience with stock and aftermarket ECU’s. Over 20 years of the Nissan Skyline GT-R, we have tried a lot of different ECU’s. We have fixed a lot of issues, and seen a lot of things that make us shake our head. The best ECU in the world sucks with a shitty tuner, and an improper tune. The most basic ECU is great with a good tune, and people that understand its limitations. If you buy the fanciest ECU, and don’t set it up correctly, then don’t buy the fanciest ECU. Our normal recommendation these days, is use whatever your tuner recommends. You don’t want to pay for them to learn how to use the ECU. There may also be some tricks in setting it up, like Haltech, TPS, and ATTESA don’t always get along.
Most people insist on a MAP sensor, when a MAF actually does a better job of measuring actual airflow into the engine than a MAP. However blow off valves, old style MAF, and a few other limitations mean that most people go to MAP.
MAP= Manifold absolute pressure
MAF= Mass air flow
Strengths of Mass Air Flow
Extremely accurate fueling and spark delivery across a diverse range of engine conditions (at least while in steady-states): the holy grail for engine management. A properly set-up MAF system can adapt to changes in weather and altitude with ease.
Minor changes to engine equipment (i.e. headers, minor camshaft changes, intakes that do not significantly alter the placement of the MAF) do not require recalibration of the ECM.
Weaknesses of Mass Air Flow
MAF systems are extremely intolerant of vacuum leaks. Any leaks between MAF sensor and engine generally cause all manner of odd problems, running lean in most cases due to un-metered air making it into the engine.
MAF sensors can be extremely sensitive to how they are “clocked” – merely rotating the sensor at a given spot in the intake tract can be sufficient to significantly change its output.
MAF sensors require laminar flow to read 100% accurately. True laminar fluids do not exist so this introduces some degree of inaccuracy to MAF sensor readings. Placing MAF sensors near bends, size transitions or obstructions where flow is less laminar greatly magnifies this issue.
A MAF sensor can be a flow restriction in cases where the MAF housing is the smallest portion of the intake system.
Hot-wire MAF elements are very fragile. Debris can destroy delicate wires easily. Dirt and oil deposits can build up on the sensor element, adversely affecting readings.
MAF systems have a relatively poor response to transient conditions, such as sudden throttle changes. This is explained by the time it takes air to move from the MAF sensor where it is measured to the cylinder where it can be involved in combustion.
MAF sensors are not “one-way” sensors – reversion from a camshaft with large amounts of overlap can cause air to be metered on its way in to the engine and then again on its way out resulting in an artificially high MAF reading. This can almost always be fixed by placing the MAF sensor sufficiently far from the throttle body, however doing so comes at the expense of making transient response even worse.
It may seem like there are a lot of weaknesses of MAF systems, but it is truly hard to emphasize just how amazing and important the strengths are. It is no secret that the majority of OEMs today are implementing MAF systems as the primary control strategy. There is a good reason for this, namely that engines can be controlled much more precisely (with the goal of meeting stricter and stricter emissions standards) with a MAF system than any other type of control strategy.
We did a lot of the initial development work of the RB26 V1 with AEM. They were local in LA, and we loaned them a stock car to dyno, and to install an ECU and tune. A few things they found were related to the CAS. The stock CAS has a 360 wheel in it, and the ECU can have a hard time reading it. They make a modified wheel to minimize errors. The V1 also runs the coils in waste spark, which works fine, but I still don’t like the idea of it. If you run it on the R34, you have to check out the load for the TPS, for the ATTESA system to work correctly.
The Power FC has been around many years, and is a well supported and documented ECU. With a hand commander, you can monitor and tune your own car. Its a little unwieldy to make changes with a commander, but it is possible. Companies like FC-Datalogit make aftermarket boxes that allow laptop tuning and datalogging of a Power FC. The one thing I don’t like about the Power FC, is that it has no actual knock control. It will flash the check engine light at you, but it will not knock back timing or boost. Some good things are integrated boost control, options to run many MAF and even MAP with the DJetro. Some cool features in some of the special boxes they make, like launch control in some of the Power FC pro.
D Jetro map sensors hooked to the balance tube, not to each individual runner as the instructions say
Apex Power FC D Jetro
Do not hook the MAP sensors up how they tell you. Do not drill and tap the plenum. You have a very erratic map signal, and the cars never seem to run right. Tap the sensors off the balance tube. These seems to make them pretty happy.
Apex Power FC L Jetro
This is the normal Power FC version. It will run a number of MAF right out of the box. Works
Apex Power FC Pro
There are a number of versions of this, and there are even some other special ones. However they normally have launch control built in.
Nistune is a real-time tuning suite designed especially for Nissans which provides the ability to:
• Retune factory Nissan Engine Control Units (ECU)
• Monitor gauges and map tracing on your ECU
• Data log from your ECU using consult, wideband and auxiliary inputs
• Perform playback using graphs, gauges and map tracing
Our System Provides:
• Connectivity for up to two emulators simultaneously
• Loads and Saves files in regular and odd/even formats for chip burning (EPROM/FLASH)
Features:
• Real time tuning, map tracing, logging and playback
• Full Log Recording for all Nistune ECUs
• Wideband can also be recorded inline with consult data and played back.
• Map and table copy feature
• Completely editable multi window grid map/table views
• Resize injectors and change AFM capabilities
• AFR and auxillary input trace against RPM and load
• Consult display capabilities with real time diagnostic information in separate windows
• Dual channel Wide Band support
• Edit five ROM images simultaneously, with comparison capabilities
• Intelligent display tables decoded for easy modification
• Hardware and software installation guides, videos and manuals provided
Megasquirt MS3Pro
Vpec
R32 GT-R ECU pinout
Defeating the speed limiter on an R32/R33/R34 ECU.
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